Via dei Frati, stage 4: Polizzi to Petralia Sottana

The fourth stage of the Via dei Frati goes from Polizzi Generosa to Petralia Sottana via the Madonna dell’Alto sanctuary, at almost 1,800 metres. It is about 18 km and 6 hours 30 minutes of walking without stops, with over 1,000 metres of ascent according to the Madonie Park. It is the highest stage of the route and one of the most demanding.

If the weather is bad there is a lower winter variant, described below.

The Via dei Frati in brief

It is a walking route from the inland of Caltanissetta to the sea at Cefalù, following the friars who went round the countryside collecting alms, the “cerca”, for their convents. The association that looks after it, the Amici della Via dei Frati, measures it at about 166 km. Stages 4 to 8 cross the Madonie Park, and this is the first of them.

What you see along the stage

You start at the large trough of Polizzi Generosa, passing under the aqueduct arches, and reach the entrance of the Sanguisughe picnic area. Then the route enters the conifer woods and climbs, with ever wider views over the Imera valley.

Halfway there is the spring near the Madonna dell’Alto. From there a steep, stony climb leads to the Madonna dell’Alto sanctuary. The Park describes a 360-degree view from the top: the Madonie, the villages below, Enna, Caltanissetta, Etna and, when the air is clear, the Aeolian Islands.

You go back to the spring and descend on the old Sentiero dei Pellegrini, which coincides with the Sentiero Italia. The Cefalù Madonie tourist district describes it like this: hairpins in the Vallone della Cella, the old drove road of contrada Gisa near the centuries-old Puntaloro ash tree, the southern Imera river, then a paved stretch and the entrance to Petralia Sottana.

The Madonna dell’Alto sanctuary

It is one of the highest Marian sanctuaries in Italy, on Monte Alto, below the summit of San Salvatore. It holds a marble statue of the Madonna attributed to Gagini.

It is not always open. CAI mentions the first half of August and the third Sunday of May; the Park recalls the feasts on the first Sunday of July and on 15 August. On those days you will find pilgrims and processions around the church.

The winter variant

In fog, strong wind or snow the Park suggests a variant that avoids the climb to the sanctuary. It starts from the same trough in Polizzi, takes Via San Pietro, climbs towards the Nociazzi trough and Pian dei Mulini, enters the woods and reaches the road that comes down from the Sentiero dei Pellegrini towards Petralia Sottana.

Who it is for and when to go

For trained walkers used to long days with a lot of ascent. The surface varies: roads, dirt tracks, footpaths and the scree below the sanctuary.

Spring and autumn are the best seasons. In summer start at dawn. In winter the upper part is often snowbound: use the variant and check the weather in Polizzi Generosa and in Petralia Sottana.

Sleeping and eating at the start and finish

In Polizzi Generosa you will find accommodation in where to stay in Polizzi Generosa. At the finish, where to stay in Petralia Sottana and where to eat in Petralia Sottana. The association lists on its website the places that host walkers and the form for the pilgrim credential.

Tips

• Bring a packed lunch: there is nowhere to eat between the two villages.
• Count the daylight hours: in autumn it is easy to arrive in Petralia after dark.
• The final descent is long; poles help.

The next stage, stage 5 from Petralia Sottana to Gangi, is shorter and passes through Petralia Soprana. You can also reach the same sanctuary on the Sentiero della Pace.