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A Madonie weekend from Palermo: Saturday Pizzo Carbonara and Petralia Sottana, Sunday Petralia Soprana, Geraci and Castelbuono. Stops, km, hours, variants.
For a weekend in the Madonie starting from Palermo, I suggest a loop of about 240 km by car. On Saturday you drive up to Piano Battaglia, walk the loop to Pizzo Carbonara, 1,979 metres, and sleep in Petralia Sottana. On Sunday you visit Petralia Soprana, Geraci Siculo and Castelbuono, then drive back via Cefalù.
At a glance
| Leg | Km | Roads |
|---|---|---|
| Palermo → Piano Battaglia | 89 | A19, SS113, SP9, SP54 |
| Piano Battaglia → Petralia Sottana | 16.5 | SP54 |
| Petralia Sottana → Petralia Soprana | 4.7 | SS120 |
| Petralia Soprana → Geraci Siculo | 13 | SP29, SS120, SS286 |
| Geraci Siculo → Castelbuono | 22 | SS286 |
| Castelbuono → Cefalù | 24 | SS286 |
| Cefalù → Palermo | 69 | SS113, A20, A19 |
We calculated these distances on OpenStreetMap with OSRM. In total it is about 240 km. If you drive straight back from Castelbuono to Palermo on the A20 and A19, it is 91 km instead of 93 via Cefalù.
Leave early. From Palermo take the A19 and exit at Buonfornello, drive a short stretch of the SS113 and climb the SP9 through Collesano to Piano Zucchi, then the SP54 to the plateau: about 89 km. The shorter road, the SP119 from Polizzi Generosa to Portella Colla, has been closed by a landslide since February 2026 (in June 2026 the works had not started). The route planner estimates one hour 40 without stops; on mountain roads allow more.
Piano Battaglia is a plateau at about 1,600 metres between Monte Mufara and Monte San Salvatore. Before you go, check the mountain forecast: up high the weather changes quickly.
Pizzo Carbonara is the highest peak in the Madonie. The loop starts from Piano Battaglia, enters the beech wood, comes out onto the karst plateau among sinkholes and limestone slabs, and descends by another slope without repeating the way up. On clear days you can see Etna to the east and the Aeolian Islands to the north from the summit.
According to our Pizzo Carbonara trail page it is about 7 km in 2 hours 30, not counting stops, grade E. Bring at least 2 litres of water each: there is none along the trail.
In fog the plateau becomes hard to read. If visibility drops, turn back. If you do not know the CAI scale, read our guide to the CAI scale and safety first.
Stay around Piano Battaglia and walk the Battaglietta-Portella Colla geology trail, about 5.2 km with 12 stops on the rocks and fossils of the Geopark. Or wander across the plateau and into the Mufara beech wood.
On the plateau or just below are the Rifugio Giuliano Marini and the Rifugio Il Grifone, which serves food on the SP54. If you set off early for Pizzo Carbonara, take a packed lunch and eat at the top.
Drive down to Petralia Sottana, 16.5 km on the SP54. The village lies at 1,000 metres and is the seat of the Ente Parco delle Madonie, on Corso Paolo Agliata.
Stroll along Corso Paolo Agliata to the Chiesa Madre, which looks out over the valley. The village also has the Museo Civico Antonio Collisani. For the night and dinner see where to stay in Petralia Sottana and where to eat in Petralia Sottana. Our village page is Petralia Sottana.
Petralia Soprana is 4.7 km from Petralia Sottana. It is the highest village in the Madonie Park, at 1,147 metres, and in 2018 it won the Borgo dei Borghi contest on the Rai 3 programme Kilimangiaro.
You explore it on foot, starting from the viewpoints. According to I Borghi più belli d’Italia there are three:
On Piazza Loreto stands the church of Santa Maria di Loreto, with its majolica spires and a marble altarpiece attributed to Giandomenico Gagini. More on our page for Petralia Soprana.
From Petralia Soprana to Geraci Siculo it is about 13 km. Walk up to the ruins of the Ventimiglia castle, at over 1,100 metres, with the chapel of Sant’Anna still intact. Entry is free and the area is always open (Balarm). On clear days you can see as far as the Aeolian Islands from up there, writes the Palermo Soprintendenza.
The story of the castle and of the family that built it is in our article on the Ventimiglia castles. For lunch in Geraci see where to eat in Geraci Siculo.
From Geraci to Castelbuono it is 22 km on the SS286. The fixed point here is the Ventimiglia castle, home to the Museo Civico, with the Palatine Chapel decorated with stucco by the Serpotta brothers.
| Museo Civico di Castelbuono | |
|---|---|
| November-March | every day, 9.30 am-4.45 pm |
| April-October | every day, 9.30 am-1 pm and 3-6.30 pm |
| Ticket | full 6 euros, reduced 4 euros |
Data from the Museo Civico, checked on 19 October 2026. In winter the museum closes at 4.45 pm: if you are running late, swap the order and do Castelbuono before Geraci.
After the castle, walk around the old town and try the local specialities, from manna to the testa di turco pastry. We cover manna in our guide to Castelbuono manna; addresses are under where to eat in Castelbuono.
From Castelbuono drive down to Cefalù, 24 km, if you want to end with the sea and the Norman cathedral; then 69 km to Palermo. If you are in a hurry, from Castelbuono to Palermo it is 91 km.
This is the season of the coloured beech woods around Piano Battaglia: where and when to go is in our guide to autumn colours in the Madonie. In 2026, from 23 to 25 October, Castelbuono hosts the Funghi Fest and Petralia Sottana the Festa dei Sapori Madoniti d’Autunno: if you are there that weekend, book your room early.
With snow, Pizzo Carbonara is no longer a grade E trail: our trail page warns that you need snowshoes or crampons and experience of snowy mountains. Replace it with a day on the snow at Piano Battaglia, with skiing, sledging or snowshoeing on easy routes. Lift status, roads and chains are covered in our guide to Piano Battaglia in winter.
At the end of July Castelbuono celebrates Sant’Anna: in 2026 the main days were 25 to 27 July (Festa di Sant’Anna). On the first weekend of August Geraci Siculo hosts the Giostra dei Ventimiglia. In summer set off for Pizzo Carbonara first thing in the morning, when it is cooler.
Instead of Pizzo Carbonara you can choose the Gole di Tiberio, near San Mauro Castelverde: according to our trail page it is one of the walks best suited to children, with little climbing and the water always close by. Bear in mind that it lies outside this loop and makes the trip longer.
This itinerary is designed for a car. We have not yet checked bus timetables between the Madonie villages, so you will not find them here. For other ideas, see our other itineraries or the Travel info section.
If you prefer a single base, we also have a weekend route on the Castelbuono side, with the Piano Sempria woods, the Gole di Tiberio and Pollina, and a one-day route from Palermo.
Page updated on 19 October 2026