Itineraries
Food of the Madonie
What to eat in the Madonie and in which town: cheese, badda beans, mushrooms, manna and desserts, a seasonal food calendar and which type of place to choose.
In the Madonie you eat the mountain cooking of the villages: pasture cheeses such as provola delle Madonie and caciocavallo, legumes such as the badda bean of Polizzi Generosa, autumn mushrooms, the manna of the ash trees of Castelbuono and Pollina, and desserts that change from one town to the next. Almost every town has a product of its own, often recognised by a Slow Food Presidium or by the list of traditional products of Sicily. This guide tells you what to look for, in which town and in which season; addresses are in the list of places to eat in the Madonie.
Seven products are enough to understand Madonie cooking. Each has its own guide.
| Product | Where | Season | Guide |
|---|---|---|---|
| Provola delle Madonie | San Mauro Castelverde, Geraci Siculo, Collesano and the whole massif | made March-June | cheeses |
| Caciocavallo | San Mauro Castelverde | all year, festival in early June | cheeses |
| Badda bean | Polizzi Generosa | fresh August-November, dried all year | beans and grains |
| Mushrooms | woods on the northern side, from Castelbuono to Piano Battaglia | autumn; basilisk mushroom April-June | mushrooms and truffles |
| Manna | Castelbuono and Pollina | harvest July-September, on sale all year | manna |
| Village desserts | Castelbuono, Polizzi Generosa, Gratteri | testa di turco in winter, the others all year | desserts |
| Olive oil and wine | oil throughout the area, DOC wine between Sclafani Bagni and Caltavuturo | olives September to January, grape harvest festival in September | olive oil and wine |
Every town has its product. Below is what official sources link to each village, with a link to the page of local places to eat.
Ash tree manna, testa di turco and the manna panettone born in Piazza Margherita. At the end of October the Funghi Fest, in December Dolcemente Castelbuono. It is the inland town with the most places in our list: where to eat in Castelbuono.
The badda bean, a Slow Food Presidium, and sfoglio with tuma and chocolate. In August the Sagra delle Nocciole. Places in where to eat in Polizzi Generosa.
The provola towns: this is where the three Slow Food Presidium farms are. Geraci celebrates the transhumance at the end of May, San Mauro caciocavallo in early June, Collesano cheese in November. Ferula mushrooms also grow around Collesano. Places in where to eat in Geraci Siculo, San Mauro Castelverde and Collesano.
S biscuits with fennel, taralle, vastedda fritta and canestrato vacchino: four traditional products in a single village. In August the festivals of the vastedda and of purpietta c’addauru, meatballs with bay leaves. Places in where to eat in Gratteri.
Wheat: the Sagra della Spiga in Gangi and the Sagra del Grano in Pianello, a hamlet of Petralia Soprana, both in August. In Raffo, another hamlet of Petralia Soprana, the Sagra del Sale is linked to the rock salt mine, and at the end of September grapes are trodden by foot in Piazza Duomo in Petralia Soprana. Places in where to eat in Gangi and where to eat in Petralia Soprana.
At the end of October the Festa dei Sapori Madoniti d’Autunno, which began as a chestnut festival, brings products from all over the Park along the main street. Places in where to eat in Petralia Sottana.
Broad beans for Saints Peter and Paul on 29 June, the wild and heritage vegetables of the Madonie at the April festival, cheese, honey and roast chestnuts at Sapori d’Autunno in November. Places in where to eat in Isnello.
Naturally leavened bread made with twice-milled durum wheat semolina, a traditional product, and sfoglio, which the regional sheet attributes to Castellana itself. At the end of July the Festival del Gelato Madonita. Places in where to eat in Castellana Sicula.
Fruit watered from the Agnello and Gulfone springs, in the Imera valley. The Scillato apricot is a Slow Food Presidium and is picked from late May for two or three weeks; the Biondo orange, a late variety, is picked in March and April and celebrated in early May with the Sagra dell’Arancia. The Nebba olive is also a traditional product. Places in where to eat in Scillato.
Manna, together with Castelbuono, with its August festival; olive oil, with the Sagra dell’Ulivo in Finale in November. Places in where to eat in Pollina.
The wine of the Contea di Sclafani DOC, which covers both municipalities entirely. At the end of August Sclafani Bagni hosts a wine and food festival with Michelin-starred chefs. Places in where to eat in Sclafani Bagni.
The Madonie’s gateway to the sea has almost half the places in our list. If you stay in Cefalù, you can drive up for the day to Gratteri, Isnello or Castelbuono for mountain products. In the hamlet of Sant’Ambrogio, in early November, there is a festival of the strawberry tree fruit. Places in where to eat in Cefalù.
Madonie products follow the calendar of pastures, woods and fields. In short:
| Season | What to look for | Festivals to note |
|---|---|---|
| Spring | wild greens, provola (made March to June), basilisk mushroom, Biondo oranges, Scillato apricots at the end of May | vegetables in Isnello (April), oranges in Scillato (early May), transhumance in Geraci (end of May) |
| Summer | manna, broad beans, wheat, hazelnuts, ice cream made with local products | caciocavallo (June), broad beans (29 June), ice cream (July), manna, spiga, wheat, hazelnuts, vastedda (August) |
| Autumn | mushrooms, chestnuts, dried badda beans, olives and new oil, grape harvest | A Pistata (September), Funghi Fest and Sapori Madoniti (end of October), Ulivo and Sapori d’Autunno (November) |
| Winter | testa di turco, panettone and Christmas sweets | Dolcemente Castelbuono (December) |
The dates of each festival are in the Madonie food festival calendar, ordered by season.
The lemadonie.it list of places to eat sorts places by type. On 19 October 2026 it had 196 entries in 15 municipalities:
| Type | Entries | When to choose it |
|---|---|---|
| Restaurant | 87 | sit-down lunch or dinner, full menu |
| Bar | 54 | breakfast, granita, snack |
| Food shop | 24 | cheese, cured meats, manna, sweets to take home |
| Pizzeria | 17 | informal dinner |
| Trattoria | 8 | home cooking, simple setting |
| Pastry shop | 6 | testa di turco, sfoglio, panettone |
| Farm restaurant | 1 | meal in the countryside, farm produce |
The type of each place comes from the entry’s source, almost always OpenStreetMap, and is not a quality rating. The numbers change: the list is updated every week and only publishes an entry when it has a source that can be checked.
The distribution is very uneven. Cefalù has 96 entries, Castelbuono 34, Pollina and Isnello 10 each, Petralia Soprana and Castellana Sicula 8, Polizzi Generosa and Collesano 7, Petralia Sottana 6. The other towns have between one and three, and Caltavuturo none for now.
So if you travel inland, plan ahead: choose the town where you will stop for lunch and check the opening hours on the entry, which come from OpenStreetMap and need checking, especially out of season and on weekdays.
Two ideas to adapt:
To put together two full days of villages and trails, see our weekend in the Madonie. If you start from Cefalù, the Rocca di Cefalù is a good walk before dinner.
If you want to recreate at home what you tasted, the guide to traditional Madonie recipes collects only documented recipes: testa di turco, sfoglio, vastedda fritta, taralle, pane cu cruscenti and Isnello’s broad beans.
Updated on 19 October 2026
423 m a.s.l.
The town of the Ventimiglia castle, manna and testa di turco
920 m a.s.l.
The town of the Abies nebrodensis, sfoglio and badda beans
1,077 m a.s.l.
The first capital of the Ventimiglia, above the Madonie woods
1,025 m a.s.l.
The village at a thousand metres above the Gole di Tiberio
470 m a.s.l.
Ceramics, a castle and the Targa Florio museum
680 m a.s.l.
The terrace over the Tyrrhenian Sea above Cefalù
1,011 m a.s.l.
Borgo dei Borghi 2014, all stone on Monte Marone
1,147 m a.s.l.
The highest town in the Madonie, Borgo dei Borghi 2018
1,039 m a.s.l.
Home of the Madonie Park, at the foot of Piano Battaglia
583 m a.s.l.
The town of the stars, beneath the Madonie cliffs
774 m a.s.l.
The village of hamlets and murals
239 m a.s.l.
Springs, water mills and oranges
664 m a.s.l.
The stone theatre and the manna, above the sea at Finale
755 m a.s.l.
The walled village on the rock and its hot spring
16 m a.s.l.
The Norman cathedral, the Rocca and the sea at the foot of the Madonie
Food
Madonie cheeses one by one: Slow Food provola, caciocavallo, Gratteri's canestrato, ricotta and tuma, with farms to visit, cheese festivals and pairings.
Food
Polizzi Generosa's badda bean, a Slow Food Presidium, Isnello's broad beans and the ancient grains of the Madonie: what they are, harvest times, where to buy.
Food
Mushrooms in the Madonie: when to find them, the rare basilisk mushroom, Park and Region rules on permits and limits, truffles and where to eat them in autumn.
Food
Madonie desserts town by town: Castelbuono's testa di turco, Polizzi's sfoglio, manna panettone, Gratteri's biscuits, and where to buy them.
Food
Madonie olive oil and wine: Val di Mazara PDO and Sicilia PGI oil, the Nebba olive of Scillato, the Contea di Sclafani DOC, a Castelbuono winery and festivals.
Food
Madonie manna is the sap of ash trees cut by hand around Castelbuono and Pollina: Slow Food Presidium, summer harvest, grades, uses and where to buy it.
Food
Madonie food festival (sagre) calendar by season: usual periods, villages and what you eat, from Scillato oranges to Polizzi hazelnuts and mushrooms.
Food
Documented Madonie recipes step by step: Castelbuono's testa di turco, Polizzi's sfoglio, Gratteri's vastedda fritta and taralle, bread and broad beans.
Itineraries